1 knit 1 yarn over. We make yarn overs on knitting needles. MK. Double yarn over option

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Having opened the description of knitting an original blouse, sweater, hat or scarf with a beautiful pattern, a novice craftswoman will inevitably encounter capes. They can be straight and reverse, double, triple and even with four curls, tilted to the left and tilted to the right... And if there are also a lot of abbreviations in the text, it won’t be too difficult to get confused! But, never mind: Chip and Dale, armed with yarn and knitting needles, are rushing to your aid!

How to knit a yarn over with knitting needles

Straight yarn over

If we talk about classic knitting, only two types of casting are applicable: straight (used most often) and reverse. To knit the first one, you will need to grab the working thread with your right knitting needle, which is located on the index finger of your left hand, the direction of movement is towards you. The draft that we end up with when knitting a new loop must be lightly held with the index finger on your right hand.

IMPORTANT! In the next row, unless otherwise required by the work pattern, we knit the cast with a purl stitch!
A straight cast is characterized by the fact that it is not connected to the loop of the row located below, so during the work a small hole is created between the columns of the loops. It is with the help of direct sketches that openwork patterns are formed!

IMPORTANT! If you do not knit the cast in the new row together with the stitch next to it, you will end up with the beginning of a new column of stitches.

Straight yarn over with knitting needles: video master class

Reverse yarn over

If during work you need to add loops without creating openwork holes, we recommend using a reverse cast: we pick up the working thread with a knitting needle in the direction away from us, under the thread. In a new row, knit the formed cast with a purl stitch, unless otherwise indicated in the diagram. As a result, a so-called crossed loop is formed, which will close the resulting hole.

Reverse yarn over with knitting needles: video MK

Double and triple yarn overs

To begin with, we suggest considering knitting one double cast. To create it, we need to insert the tip of the right knitting needle behind the working thread, which is located on the index finger, in the left hand, and then throw the working thread onto the tip of the right knitting needle in a direction away from us. Now we return the tip of the right knitting needle to the working thread, at the same time we move the index finger of the left hand along with the thread to the central plane, and again throw the thread onto the tip of the right knitting needle. Now it is located behind the right knitting needle, and directly on the tool there are two turns (that is, two yarn overs), located one after the other. In the new row, the finished double cast is knitted according to the description or diagram of a specific pattern.

The triple cast is knitted in exactly the same way, but with three turns rather than two.

Double and triple yarn over with knitting needles: video master class

Where is yarn over used?

As a rule, the yarn over is used for knitting patent and openwork patterns, as well as patterns with complex weaves of threads. Sometimes yarn over is used to add stitches.

Based on the direction in which the working knitting needle moves, there are two ways to perform the yarn over: moving towards you and away from you. It looks like this:

A cape knitted in the direction away from you can be found in descriptions extremely rarely, since it can distort a large number of openwork patterns. Based on this, if in the description of knitting your product you see the word “yarnover” without any additions or explanations, then you need to knit the yarn over in the direction towards you.

The front loop after knitting the yarn over can be done without any problems, but to knit the purl loop, you will need to carefully hold the yarn over with the index finger of your right hand so that it does not slip off the knitting needle.

If you need to knit two stitches together in front of the yarn over or immediately after it: by hooking them by the front segments, you will get a slant to the right, by the back segments - to the left.

Knitting an elastic band with yarn overs: MK video

Sea Foam Pattern

To practice and finally move from theory to practice, we suggest tying together the “Sea Foam” pattern.

To knit a sample, we need to cast on the number of loops, which is divided by 10, and add 6 more loops to them for symmetry + two loops for the edges. So, the approximate calculation looks like this: 20 + 6 + 2, there should be 28 loops on the knitting needles. Let's get to work!

We knit the first and second row with facial stitches.

Third row: 6 faces. pet., *throw on, knit 1. pet., double stitch, 1 knit. pet., triple chain., 1 knit. pet., double stitch, 1 knit. pet., cast on, knit 6. pet.*.

Fourth row: we knit it with knit stitches, dropping the stitch. during the knitting process (we don’t knit them, we just transfer them to another knitting needle).

We knit the fifth and sixth rows simply with facial loops.

In the seventh row we adhere to the following pattern: knit 1. pet., *throw on, knit 1. pet., double stitch, 1 knit. pet., triple chain., 1 knit. pet., double stitch, 1 knit. pet., cast on, knit 6. pet.*, cast on, knit 1. pet., double stitch, 1 knit. pet., triple chain., 1 knit. pet., double stitch, 1 knit. pet., throw on, knit 1. pet.

The eighth row is knitted exactly the same as the fourth.

To obtain a pattern, knit rows 1-8, constantly repeating.

Knitting patterns with crochets: video master class

The diagram shows how to knit the pattern. Basically, each cell corresponds to one loop, and each row of cells contains a number of loops. The patterns should be read in the front rows from right to left, in the back rows - from left to right.

Thus, the alternation of cells in the diagram corresponds to the alternation of loops when knitting. The numbers on the sides of the pattern indicate the number of rows from bottom to top, that is, the sequence in which you need to knit. On the right are the numbers for the front rows: on the left - for the purl rows. In the diagrams of most patterns, only the front rows are shown (most often odd). In these cases, in the purl rows the loops are knitted according to the pattern, that is: purl loops - purl, knit stitches - knit. If there are exceptions to this rule or any features, then this is usually indicated directly next to the pattern. If the purl rows are reflected in the diagram, then the loops are knitted as indicated.

How to knit a particular loop is explained with icons, the decoding of which is given in a general list. All icons are selected to resemble the loop itself as much as possible. They are remembered relatively quickly by looking at them. You can already imagine from the diagram what the pattern will be like. There is no need to be afraid, and then the schemes will very soon “speak” to you!

IN rapport(MS) reflects the number of stitches in width that you will need to create the pattern. This pattern is repeated so many times. how much is needed to obtain the desired width of the product. Rapport is marked on the diagrams with arrows or square brackets. Start knitting with loops until repeat, then repeat repeat loops as many times as possible. as needed to achieve the desired width of the product, and finish with loops after repeating.

If there is a central pattern, then only the required number of stitches for this pattern is given, and the main pattern running on both sides of it is knitted in accordance with the description or your own idea. The diagram shows the height of the number of rows required to form the pattern. The given rows should be repeated all the time. Exceptions to this rule are indicated directly next to each diagram.

Let's look at an example. Let's say we have the following diagram:


The numbers on the right side indicate that there are 12 rows in the repeat. If even rows are not indicated, then they are knitted the way the stitches look, that is: purl stitches are knitted over the knit stitches, knit stitches are knitted over the knit stitches, and purl stitches are knitted over the yarn overs.

The numbers below indicate how many loops you need to cast on. One repeat (repeating pattern) is marked with the symbols "MS".

So, in our case, we need to cast on 16 loops of the main pattern + 2 outer or edge loops (they are cast on with each knitting, as indicated in the table, they are most often not indicated in the patterns).

1st and 5th rows: * 1 purl. p., 2 p. together with the front one tilted to the right, 1 yarn over, 1 p. p., 4 p. cross to the left (leave 2 p. on the auxiliary needle before work, knit 2 p., then knit 2 p. on the auxiliary needle), purl 1. p., 2 p. together with the front one tilted to the right, 1 yarn over, 1 p. p., 4 persons. n. *, repeat from * to *;

2nd and all even rows: Knit all the loops according to the pattern, knit the yarn overs purlwise;

3rd row: * 1 purl. p., 1 yarn over, 2 p. knit together with a slant to the left, purl 1. p., 4 p. cross to the left (leave 2 p. on the auxiliary needle before work, knit 2 p., then knit 2 p. on the auxiliary needle), purl 1. p., 1 yarn over, 2 p. knit together with a slant to the left, purl 1. p., 4 persons. n. *, repeat from * to *;

7th and 11th rows: * 1 purl. p., 1 yarn over, 2 p. knit together with a slant to the left, purl 1. p., 4 persons. p., 1 p. p., 1 yarn over, 2 p. knit together with a slant to the left, purl 1. p., 4 p. cross to the right (leave 2 p. on the auxiliary needle while working, knit 2 p., then knit 2 p. with the auxiliary needle) *, repeat from * to *:;

9th row: * 1 purl. p., 2 p. together with the front one tilted to the right, 1 yarn over, 1 p. p., 4 persons. p., 1 p. p., 2 p. together with the front one tilted to the right, 1 yarn over, 1 p. p., 4 p. cross to the right (leave 2 p. on the auxiliary needle while working, knit 2 p., then knit 2 p. with the auxiliary needle) *, repeat from * to *.

Unfortunately, there are many variations in the design of loops for circuits. Almost every magazine has its own system of images of loops. It is usually located in a separate lookup table.

On our website we tried to use the most common method of depicting loops.

front loop

purl loop

remove the loop, thread behind the knitting

remove the loop, thread before knitting

Or

yarn over for openwork knitting

yarn over for tight knitting

front from broach

purl from broach

edge loop

knit stitch, double crochet

purl loop, double crochet

2 loops together knit to the right (behind the front walls from left to right)

2 loops together knit to the left (behind the back stacks from right to left)

2 loops together purl to the right

2 stitches together purl to the left

remove yarn over, thread at work

specified number of yarn overs for openwork knitting

specified number of yarn overs for tight knitting

facial crossed

purl crossed

from 1 loop we knit 3 (knit one and, without removing the loop from the left knitting needle, yarn over the right knitting needle and knit it again)

Knit 3 stitches together

the specified number of stitches together knit

Purl 3 stitches together

the specified number of loops together purl

from 3 loops we knit 3 loops (3 knit loops and, without removing the loops from the left knitting needle, yarn over the right knitting needle and knit the knit one again)

yarn over, knit 2, yarn over over knitted loops

Cross 4 loops to the right (leave 2 loops on the auxiliary needle while working, knit 2, then knit 2 knits from the auxiliary needle)

Cross 4 stitches to the left (leave 2 stitches on the auxiliary needle before work, knit 2, then knit 2 knit stitches from the auxiliary needle)

the indicated number (here 6: 3 by 3) knit stitches to the right

the indicated number (here 6: 3 by 3) cross stitches to the left with knit stitches

Cross 4 loops to the right (leave 2 loops on the auxiliary needle while working, purl 2, then purl 2 from the auxiliary needle)

Cross 4 loops to the right (leave 2 loops on the auxiliary needle before work, purl 2, then purl 2 from the auxiliary needle)

the indicated number (here 6: 3 by 3) cross stitches to the right with purl

the indicated number (here 6: 3 by 3) cross stitches to the left, purl

Knit 2, place the second stitch on the first

Purl 2, place the second loop on the first

Cross 7 loops to the left - leave 3 loops on the 1st auxiliary needle before work, leave 1 loop on the 2nd auxiliary needle while working, 3 knit loops, then purl 1 loop from the 2nd auxiliary needle and knit 3 loops with 1st auxiliary needle.

Cross 7 loops to the right - leave 3 loops on the 1st auxiliary needle while working, leave 1 loop on the 2nd auxiliary needle while working, k3. loops, then purl 1 loop from the 2nd auxiliary needle and knit 3 loops from the 1st auxiliary needle.

Slip 3 stitches onto an auxiliary needle before knitting, purl 1, knit 3 from the auxiliary needle

Leave 1 loop on the auxiliary needle while working, 3 knit stitches, then 1 purl from the auxiliary needle

1 pull: slip 1 loop as a knit stitch, 1 knit stitch and pull it through the removed loop

Slip 1 stitch as a knit stitch, knit 2 stitches together, then pull it through the slipped loop.

1 double pull: slip 2 stitches together as knit stitches, knit 1 stitch and pull it through both slipped stitches

Slip 2 loops, as in knitting, knit the next loop and pull through the removed loops

1 purl loop, knitted from a loop four rows below (unravel the loops above it)

purl crossed (insert the right knitting needle towards you from left to right into the loop on the left knitting needle, grab the thread in the direction of the arrow and pull the loop to the wrong side of the work. Leave the new loop on the right knitting needle, discard the loop of the previous row from the left knitting needle.)

front with three turns (insert the knitting needle into the loop from left to right and wrap the end of the knitting needle with thread 3 times counterclockwise)

1 garter stitch stitch: knit in both knit and purl rows

knit 1 purl crossed from the transverse thread

K1 extended from the previous row

Cross 5 p.: Leave 1 p. on the 1st auxiliary. knitting needle before work, leave 3 stitches on the 2nd auxiliary. knitting needle at work, 1 persons. p., then knit 3 p. with the 2nd aux. knitting needles and 1 p. with the 1st auxiliary. knitting needles

2 loops together to the right crossed knit

2 loops together to the left crossed knit

2 loops together to the left crossed purl

2 loops together to the right crossed purl

Ways and techniques of knitting loops on knitting needles

Let's first agree on the notation: working knitting needle(abbreviated RS) we will call the right knitting needle (left-handed for left-handed people), and the left knitting needle (right-handed for left-handers) auxiliary(abbreviated Sun). For each loop there are two pictures: one for right-handed people (on the left). and the other for left-handers (on the right).

The symbols for each loop in the figures are in some upper corner.

So let's get started:

Front loop (Figure 1-4)

1st method (Figure 1,2). Thread by knitting. RS, insert the loop on the BC behind the front wall in the direction from the BC to the RS, grab the working thread coming from the index finger, and pull a new, front loop through the loop on the BC.

Remove the knitted loop from the sun. When knitting patterns, the 1st method of knitting the front loop is usually used (if necessary, the necessary clarification is made in the text).

2nd method (Figure 3, Figure 4). Thread by knitting. Insert PC into the back of the loop on the BC, grab the working thread and pull a new knit stitch through the loop on the BC. Remove the knitted loop from the sun.

Purl loop (Fig. 4-7)

1st method (Figure 4.5). Thread before knitting. Insert RS in the direction from RS to BC behind the working thread under the front wall of the loop on BC, grab the working thread coming from the index finger and pull a new purl loop through the loop on BC.

2nd method (Figure 5.7). Thread before knitting. Insert the RS behind the working thread behind the back wall of the loop on the BC in the direction from the BC to the RS, grab the working thread coming from the index finger and pull a new purl loop through the loop on the BC.

Remove the front one, thread behind the knitting (Fig. 9.10)

Thread by knitting. Insert the RS into the loop on the BC, as when knitting a knit stitch in the 2nd way, and remove it. without knitting. on PC

Remove the front thread before knitting (Fig. 11.12)

Thread before knitting. Insert the RS behind the working thread into the loop on the BC, as when knitting a knit stitch in the 2nd method, and remove it without knitting it on the RS.

Yarn over for openwork and tight knitting (Fig. 10,11)

The yarn over is a loop of working thread on the PC. If there is a knit loop after the yarn over, throw the thread on the PC from front to back (see Fig. 10, 11), and if there is a purl loop, throw the thread from back to front (see Fig. 20, 21)

If the yarn over needs to be made so that the knitting is tight, without any gaps, it is done as described in the description of adding loops along the left edge of knitting (2nd method).

Front loop from broach (Fig. 12,13)

Thread by knitting. Insert the RS from front to back under the broach between the loops, grab the working thread coming from the index finger, and pull out a new knit stitch from under the broach.

Purl loop from broach (Fig. 14, 15)

Thread before knitting. Insert the PC under the broach. Between the loops from back to front, grab the working thread coming from your index finger and pull out a new purl loop from under the broach.

Edge loop (Fig. 16, 17)

To ensure that the edge of the knitting is smooth and beautiful, the last loop at the end of each row is knitted with a purl loop. Do not knit the 1st loop at the beginning of each row, but remove the RS by turning the loop so that a “braid” of loops is formed along the edge of the knitting.

Knit stitch, double crochet (Fig. 18, 19)

Thread by knitting. Yarn over the RS from front to back and insert it into the loop on the BC, as when knitting a knit stitch in the 2nd method, remove the loop on the RS without knitting.

Purl loop, double crochet (Fig. 20, 21)

Thread before knitting. Yarn over the RS from back to front and insert a loop into the BC, as when knitting a purl loop in the 1st way. Remove the stitch on PC without knitting.

Two knit stitches together, knitted to the right (Fig. 21, 22)

Thread by knitting. Insert RS into two adjacent loops on BC at once, as when knitting a knit stitch in method 1, and knit both loops with a knit loop. Remove the knitted loops from the sun.

Two loops together, knitted to the left (Fig. 23, 24)

Thread by knitting. Insert RS into two adjacent loops on BC at once, as when knitting a knit stitch in the 2nd method, and knit both loops together. Remove the knitted loops from the sun.

Purl two stitches together, method 1

Thread before knitting. Insert RS into two loops on BC at once, as when knitting a purl loop in the 1st way. and purl both stitches together. Remove the knitted loops from the sun.

Purl 2 stitches together, method 2

Thread before knitting. Insert RS into 2 loops on BC at once, as when knitting a purl loop in the 2nd way, and purl both loops together. Remove the knitted loops from the sun.

Knit 3 stitches together

Thread by knitting. Insert RS into 3 adjacent loops on BC at once, as when knitting a knit stitch in the 2nd method, and knit all the loops together. Remove the knitted loops from the sun.

Purl 3 stitches together

Thread before knitting. Insert RS into 3 adjacent loops on BC at once, as when knitting a purl loop in method 1, and purl together. Remove the knitted loops from the sun.

Several yarn overs in a row for openwork knitting

If there is a knit stitch after the yarn overs, throw the working thread over the PC from front to back the indicated number of times. If there is a purl stitch, throw the thread over the PC from back to front the indicated number of times.

Yarn over, knit 2, yarn over over knitted loops

Thread by knitting. Yarn over the PC from front to back and knit 2 knit stitches in sequence using the 1st method. BC, grab the yarn over the front wall and throw it through 2 knitted loops. The loops are pulled through the yarn over, which hangs freely on the knitted loops.

Swap stitch groups with knit stitches

Thread by knitting. Remove the first group of loops (the number of loops in the groups is indicated in the diagrams) onto an additional knitting needle (abbreviated as DS) and leave it before (in the second case, after) knitting. Knit sequentially with knit stitches of the second group on the BC using the 1st method. Remove the knitted loops from the BC, then knit the loops from the DC sequentially with knit stitches using the 1st method. Remove the knitted loops from the DC.

Knit 2, place 2nd stitch on 1st

Thread by knitting. Knit 2 knit stitches using the 1st method. Insert the BC into the 2nd loop on the PC and with its help, pull the 1st loop remaining on the PC through the 2nd. Drop the second loop from the sun.

Thread before knitting. Knit 2 purl stitches using the 1st method. Insert the BC into the 2nd loop on the PC and with its help, pull the 1st loop remaining on the PC through the 2nd. Throw the second loop from the sun.

Knit 3 stitches from 3 stitches

Thread by knitting. Insert a working needle into 3 stitches at once and knit in the 1st way. Without removing the knitted loops from the knitting needle, yarn over from back to front and knit the 2nd knit stitch in the same way from the same three loops. Remove the knitted loops from the left (for left-handed people - from the right) knitting needle.

To knit 5 (7, etc.) out of 3 loops, after the second knitted loop, yarn over again and knit the front loop for the third (fourth, etc.) time. also remove the knitted loops.

In the legend, the top number indicates how many loops you will knit from, and the bottom number indicates how many loops you will make.

When knitting purl crossed stitches, the thread should be in front of the work. Insert the right knitting needle towards you from left to right into the loop on the left knitting needle, grab the thread in the direction of the arrow and pull the loop to the wrong side of the work. Leave the new loop on the right needle, discard the loop of the previous row from the left needle.

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Adding yarn over loops.

This method of adding loops using yarn overs creates holes in the knitted fabric, so they are noticeable. With the help of such capes, openwork patterns are created. But, if in the next row the double crochet stitch of the previous row is knitted with a crossed loop (that is, knitted behind the back wall, it doesn’t matter whether it’s a knit or purl loop), then there will be no hole, and the increase will be invisible.

Yarn over between knit stitches.

1. Yarn over towards you and knit the next stitch as usual.

3. On the next row, when you reach the place where the increase was made, simply purl the yarn over. You will have a hole under the purl stitch.

Yarn over between purl stitches (yfwd or yo).

1. Yarn over towards you, yarn over before working, and purl the next stitch as usual.

2. We see that the yarn over has formed a new loop on the right needle.

3. On the next row, when you reach the place where the increase was made, simply knit the yarn over. You will have a hole under the knit stitch.

Yarn over between knit and purl stitches (yrn or yo).

1. Knit a knit stitch, yarn over, thread before work, purl a loop. In the next row, knit the yarn over as usual if you want to make a hole, or with a crossed loop if there is no hole.

2. Purl a stitch, yarn over, thread at work, knit a stitch. In the next row, knit the yarn over as usual if you want to make a hole, or with a crossed loop if there is no hole.

Yarn over at the beginning of the row (yfwd or yo).

1. On knit rows: Yarn over yourself and knit the first stitch of the row. On the next row, yarn over the front wall to create a raised edge.

2. On purl rows: Yarn over yourself and purl the first stitch of the row. On the next row, yarn over the front wall to create a raised edge.

Double yarn over (yfwd twice or yo2).

1. Wrap the yarn around the right needle twice, moving away from you.

2. Knit the next stitch as usual. Two new loops have formed on the right needle.

3. In the next row (in our example it will be a purl row), purl the first yarn over and knit the second yarn over. A double yarn over creates a larger hole than a single yarn over. This type of yarn over is used for knitting button holes.

Closed cape in garter stitch.

1. This method is used as an invisible addition for garter stitch only. Yarn over the right needle with a motion toward you. Knit the next stitch as usual.

2. In the next row, knit a yarn over the front wall.

3. The result is an added crossed loop, which does not create a hole. This stitch is weaker than the stitch made by knitting two stitches from one and is ideal for the texture of garter stitch.

Simple decreasing stitches.

Basically, decreases are made to give shape to the knitted fabric, to narrow it, and if combined with increases, to add texture and volume, decreases are also often used in openwork knitting.

Decrease one loop.

Knit two stitches together (k2tog or dec 1).

1. Insert the right needle from left to right through the second and first loops on the left needle behind the front wall.

3. Now instead of two loops we have one, and a slant to the right has formed. This way you will decrease one stitch in the row.

Purl two stitches together (p2tog or dec 1).

1. If you need to decrease 1 loop in a purl row, use this method. Insert the right needle from right to left through the first and second loops on the left needle behind the front wall.

2. Pick up the working yarn and pull it through both loops, then slip them off the left needle.

3. Now instead of two loops we have one, and we have decreased one loop in the row.

Reducing the front loop with a tilt to the left (s1 k1 psso or abbreviated skp).

1. Slip the first stitch from the left needle, as in knitting, onto the right one, without knitting. Knit the next stitch.

2. Using the left knitting needle, pick up the removed loop, put the knitted loop on it and throw it off the right knitting needle.

Yarn over - performed to add loops when knitting. Yarn overs are used when knitting openwork patterns, crossed yarn overs can be used when knitting relief patterns or to change the shape of the fabric, unknitted yarn overs are used when knitting elastic bands, for example, English elastic.

Yarn over is a catch of thread that is not connected to the loop of the bottom row in the fabric and forms a new column of loops with the base of which will be a hole or a crossed loop. An exception may be yarnovers that are knitted together with an adjacent loop.

There are straight and reverse yarn overs.

When knitting a straight yarn over, the thread lying on the index finger of the left hand is grabbed from the top right with a movement toward you. Then knit the next loop according to the pattern.

In the purl row, such a yarn over is knitted by default with a purl loop behind the front wall to create a hole in the fabric. In some patterns, if indicated, it can be knitted in a knit stitch.

Straight yarn over is used when knitting openwork patterns with classic loops.

How to knit a reverse yarn over

When knitting a reverse yarn over, the thread lying on the index finger of the left hand is grabbed by moving away from you from left to right and up.

In purl rows, knit purl (by default) behind the back wall or knit if this is recommended in the pattern.

To get a crossed yarn over when knitting in a straight way, you need to knit it purl to the back wall in a purl row.

When knitting a reverse yarn over, a crossed yarn over will be obtained if in a purl row you knit it purl over the front wall.

How to knit a double yarn over with knitting needles

A double yarn over is obtained by grabbing the thread twice. The thread wraps around the knitting needle. In purl rows, a double yarn over is knitted according to the instructions for the pattern. This can be: one knit and one purl, or one knit and one knit crossed, one purl and purl crossed, one yarn over can also be dropped from the knitting needle, widening the hole, while only one loop is knitted.

In knitting, yarn overs are used quite often: in patterns with complex weaves of threads, to add and lengthen loops. Without yarn overs, it is impossible to knit openwork patterns (end-to-end), and the so-called English ones (these are patterns of yarn overs and knit stitches without purl stitches). There are two ways to perform a yarn over: moving the knitting needle towards you and away from you (Fig. 3.1).

Yarn "from yourself" used extremely rarely. Many patterns, for example, like the English ones, with such a yarn over are obtained in a distorted form; in openwork patterns it leaves a too large hole. In hand knitting, as a rule, the yarn over is applied “towards you”. To perform some openwork patterns, it is sometimes necessary to make several yarn overs in a row, that is, several turns around the knitting needle.

If the yarn over is followed by a knit stitch, then it is knitted without difficulty, but if it is a purl loop, then when knitting it, the yarn over must be held with the index finger of your right hand so that it does not slip off the knitting needle. If after yarn over you need to remove a loop without knitting, then the knitting needle is inserted into it from right to left, as shown in Fig. 3.1.

Sometimes after the yarn over (or before it) 2 stitches are knitted together. In this case, the knitting needle is inserted into 2 loops at once and one of them is knitted. The new loop will definitely be tilted to the right if 2 loops were knitted from the front walls, or to the left - if from the back ones. This pattern is used in openwork patterns for a clearer image.

Openwork patterns

It is recommended to make them from a straight thread, since knots, thickenings and other defects when knitting an openwork pattern are very noticeable. Yarn consumption for openwork patterns is the lowest compared to all other patterns. Get acquainted with knitting the simplest openwork pattern while continuing to knit the training fabric.

Figure 3.2. Hemstitch

Exercise 3.1. Merezhka (Fig. 3.2)
There are 29 stitches on the needles (the number should be divided by 3 plus 2 edge stitches).
1st row - 1 yarn over (towards you), knit the next 2 loops together with “grandmother’s” knit, 1 knit with “grandmother’s”, etc.
2nd row - purl "granny" loops (knit yarn overs also purl).

After this exercise, the canvas will become skewed. This happened because in the same row 2 loops were repeatedly knitted together with a tilt in the same direction.
The distortion resulting from the structure of the pattern should not be confused with another - from a strongly twisted thread.

English knitting

A typical example of English knitting is various English elastic bands. The fabric made from them is lush, loose, with the same pattern on both sides. Elastic bands stretch greatly, so they cannot be used to decorate the edges of clothes. They are mainly used for knitting scarves, hats and sportswear.

Exercise 3.2. English elastic band 1x1 (Fig. 3.3)
There are an odd number of loops on the knitting needles - 29. The knitting is not tight.
1st row - knit 1, yarn over 1, slip 1, etc.
Yarn over the 2nd and all subsequent rows before each purl loop, and remove the purl stitch, knitting, count the double crochet loop as one loop and knit the front wall (if you knit the back one, the pattern will turn out in a distorted form).

Two-tone looks smart English elastic with narrow horizontal stripes (Fig. 3.4).
They knit it like this: 2 rows in one color, 2 rows in another, and so alternate without breaking the threads. Using the same principle, you can knit with threads of three or more colors.

Interesting option two-color English elastic band with sides equal in color (Fig. 3.5). This knitting must be done with knitting needles on a fishing line or straight, but with two working ends.

Exercise 3.3. Two-color English elastic band 1x1 with vertical stripes (see Fig. 3.5)
There are 29 loops on the needles (odd number). Knit not tightly, 1st row (the front side of the work is dark thread) - 1 knit, 1 yarn over, slip 1, etc.
2nd row (wrong side of the work, light thread) - 1 yarn over, slip 1, knit 1 (knit the yarn over with a loop, counting them as one loop), etc.
3rd row (wrong side of the work, move the knitting to the opposite end of the knitting needle and knit with a dark thread) - 1 purl (purl a yarn over with a loop, counting them as one loop), 1 yarn over, slip 1, etc.
4th row (front side of work, light thread) - 1 yarn over, slip 1, purl 1 (purl the yarn over with a loop, counting them as one loop), etc.
5th row (right side of the work, move the knitting to the opposite end of the knitting needle and knit with a dark thread) - 1 knit (knit a yarn over with a loop, counting them as one loop), 1 yarn over, slip 1, etc.

6th row - repeat the pattern from the 2nd row.

There are many other patterns (not only two-color, but also one-color), for which you have to move the knitting along the knitting needle. All of them are distinguished by an intricate weave of threads and therefore seem complex. In fact, they are performed without difficulty.

Note. Knitting needles with two working ends can be made from regular ones by sharpening the non-working end. It's okay if you have any mistakes while knitting, they can always be corrected.

Removed or pulled out loops

Skimmed loops are often used in patterns. They can be short, if removed without knitting, to a height of 1-2 rows, or long (4-6 rows). Short slip stitches are performed as follows: the knitting needle is inserted into the loop from right to left and removed from the left knitting needle to the right one, without knitting .
In this case, depending on the characteristics of the pattern, the working thread can be left behind the removed loop (Fig. 3.6) or placed in front of it (Fig. 3.6).

To knit a long removed loop, you need to insert the right knitting needle into the loop from left to right (the working thread lies on the index finger) and wrap the end of the knitting needle several times clockwise with thread (Fig. 3.7). Then pull the knitting needle with turns back into the loop (make sure that the turns do not slip) and remove the knitted loop from the left knitting needle to the right one. In the next rows, the loop formed from the turns is removed without knitting, while the knitting needle is inserted from right to left.

Exercise 3.4. Elastic band 1x1 from removed short loops (Fig. 3.8)
There are 29 loops on the needles (the number must be odd, edge stitches are included in this count).
1st row - knit 1, purl 1, etc.
2nd and all even rows - slip purl stitches, leaving the thread in front of the loops, and knit knit stitches.
3rd row - repeat the pattern from the 1st row.

Exercise 3.5. Removed long loops on the purl stitch (Fig. 3.9)
There are 29 loops on the needles. This is the last exercise on the training surface.
1st row - purl 4, * knit 1 with two turns, purl 5. From * repeat until the end of the row.
At the end of the row, knit 1 with two turns, purl 4 and an edge stitch.
2nd row - knit 4, * remove 1 (thread in front of the loop) and pull out using the turns dropped from the knitting needle, knit 5. From * repeat until the end of the row. At the end of the row, remove and pull out 1 loop (thread in front of the loop), 4 knit stitches and an edge stitch.
3rd row - purl 4, * slip 1 stitch (insert the knitting needle from right to left, thread behind the loop), purl 5. From * repeat until the end of the row. At the end of the row, remove 1 loop (thread by loop), purl 4 and an edge stitch.
4th row - knit 4, * slip 1 stitch (insert the knitting needle from right to left, thread in front of the loop), knit 5. From * repeat until the end of the row. At the end of the row, remove 1 loop (thread in front of the loop, * 4 knits and an edge stitch.
5th row - repeat the pattern from the 1st row. Thus, the removed loop is not knitted in four rows.
After finishing the exercise, fasten (close) the loops of the last row and carefully examine the fabric. It clearly shows the dependence of its width on the structure of the pattern (the widest is an English elastic band, the narrowest elastic band is 1X1 from the short loops removed).

In the following lessons we will look at how to make a chain stitch.

If the canvas is stretched in width, you will notice another pattern: the patterns stretch in different ways. The two patterns that proved to be the most pliable were the garter stitch purl stitch and the English rib stitch.

Features of patterns must be taken into account when making knitted clothing. For example, if you are planning to knit an item that you will wear often, then you should not make it with a loose pattern: the item will quickly deform.

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