How to open the back cover of a pocket watch. How to change the battery in a wristwatch? Everything is very simple

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There is a simple rule: “if your watch breaks, take it to the workshop.” However, there are times when you just need to replace the battery. This is easy to do with your own hands if you open the back cover of the watch. So we'll look at how this can be done.

In inexpensive watches, the lid is made with a latch. There are two versions of the latch - with a boss on the lid and with a groove on the lid and watch case. In the first case, use a flat-head screwdriver of a suitable size to pry up the tongue of the lid, and pressing the screwdriver against the body, open the lid. In the second case, we use a sharp, durable blade such as a scalpel or shoe knife. We insert a sharpened blade into the groove and forcefully remove the lid from the lock.


There are covers with fastening in the form of a threaded ring. It is advisable to have a special tool here. But a regular caliper also works well. We spread the outer jaws of the caliper so that they fit tightly into the grooves of the fastening ring, and fix them with a locking screw in this position. Then carefully unscrew the locking ring by slowly rotating the caliper counterclockwise. Then we pry up the cover with a clock screwdriver and remove it from the case.

There are covers simply with threaded fastening. The thread is cut directly onto the side edge of the lid. The opening method is similar to that specified in paragraph 2, with the exception of using not external, but internal jaws of the caliper. Well, the last method is to screw the lid. The fastening is made using miniature bolts. It is necessary to unscrew the bolts only using a high-quality watch screwdriver with the appropriate profile. Otherwise, there is a chance of damaging the screw splines, and further removal will be quite difficult. Here it will be impossible to do without a master. We remember that it is necessary to unscrew the screws in a certain sequence, diagonally.)for them. When purchasing a battery, a consultant in a store will be able to select the right size based on the markings indicated on the existing element. However, the battery life will not always last long. Knowing some of the nuances outlined in the article, you can purchase a reliable battery that will last for several years, taking care of the accuracy of the watch and the punctuality of its owner.

Which batteries are better?

You can determine when the moment to change the battery is by the daily time lag, or by the “End of life” function, in which the second hand jumps through several divisions at once, indicating the low capacity of the battery.

Before going to the store, you should familiarize yourself with battery classification, which are:

- saline. Marked with the letter R. The positive side is their low cost compared to other types of batteries and their versatility, as they are suitable for any wristwatch. However, they have a short shelf life and service life; in the absence of proper attention on the part of the owner, the electrolyte can leak from a discharged battery, leading to breakdown of the mechanism;
- alkaline(alkaline, manganese-zinc). They are marked LR, are in the middle price category, and depending on the manufacturer and the current consumption of the electronic circuit of the watch, will last at least a year. The shelf life is 2 – 3 years, which should be taken into account when purchasing;
-silver-zinc (S.R.). They are produced in three types, divided by load mode, and are high in cost. Option SR-LD – has a low, uniform current, which is optimal for simple mechanisms (that is, the presence of hour, minute, second hands). Will last at least 2 years. Option SR - HD - contains a high, uneven current, ensures the operation of complex mechanisms for 2 - 3 years. SR – MD is considered the most reliable; it will maintain the accuracy of the watch mechanism for 3 years;
-lithium(CR) batteries, suitable for all types of mechanisms, have a voltage of 3 V and a shelf life of 3 to 7 years. Accordingly, they are the most expensive, but the best among the listed batteries.

Firms

Among battery manufacturers, Japanese ones have the longest service life and storage compared to their European and Chinese counterparts. This Sony, Seiko, Seizaiken(in principle the same Seiko, but... not quite)

Good companies can also be considered Maxell(Japan), Energizer(USA), . Regarding the German Varta and Swiss Renata. Varta is basically like China. Renata has a catch - it can leak while the clock is still running.

How to change a watch battery

The battery is replaced on a light, clean surface, placing a soft cloth under the watch to prevent scratches on the glass; in a hat to prevent hair or skin particles from getting inside the watch. Clean the recesses in the watch case from dirt (for example, using a toothbrush soaked in water and soaped with laundry soap).

How to open the lid?


Open the watch cover, taking into account its fastening mechanism, which can be as follows:

On screws. In this case, reduce the load on the screws arranged in pairs, and then unscrew them in any sequence;
-snap-on, you need to find a narrow crack in the area where the strap is attached, carefully pry the lid off with a knife blade, and open it, trying not to force it.
On waterproof watches, the lid is secured with a thread. Craftsmen use a special tool to unscrew it; at home, a caliper with tucked jaws or tweezers will do. It is advisable to place the watch case in a vice.

Remove the sealing gasket. Having reached the battery, loosen the screw securing the movable clamping bar and move it to the side. The battery is lifted under the action of a spring mechanism. Afterwards, it is removed from the housing using tweezers with insulated claws, the contact is checked for cleanliness (if necessary, cleaned with a cloth soaked in alcohol) and a new battery is inserted.

Is it possible to change the battery in a wristwatch yourself?

If you have a budget watch with a simple mechanism for opening (closing) the lid, you can completely cope with replacing the battery yourself. It is enough to choose the right battery and carry out the work, following the recommendations described above.
It is better to entrust the replacement of batteries in expensive or waterproof watches to professionals, as they will correctly install the sealing gasket using silicone grease (depending on the type of gasket), which will prevent the mechanisms from getting moisture inside.

Based on the article, the consumer will be able to choose the optimal type of battery for a wristwatch and, if desired, replace it at home.

Time is one of the fleeting resources that humanity has. Wearing a watch helps keep track of it. Do not forget about one of the disadvantages of the accessory - the presence of a battery, which can exhaust its limit at the most inopportune moment. Find out how to remove the batteries without damaging the device.

Is it possible to replace the watch battery yourself?

All people have used this simple device at least once. A person values ​​time and is afraid of being late for an important meeting, to the hospital, or on a date. Devices capable of counting help you control and set priorities correctly. There are situations when the phone or other equipment dies and a person is left with only wrist watches that help control time. They can stand up too. What to do in this case?

There are two ways to replace the power supply: yourself or go to a workshop where experienced specialists know how to change the battery in a wristwatch. If repairs in such a place are impossible, then you will have to do it yourself. Replacing batteries requires care. One awkward movement can damage the accessory. Restoring Nick's Swiss or jewelry watches and memorabilia is especially expensive.

How to open a wristwatch

Owners of any walkers know that the baby charger is located on the back of the device. The lid is attached in various ways: with bolts or by pressing. Given this fact, it needs to be removed in a certain way:

  • In the first case, you have to take a screwdriver and disassemble it by unscrewing the fasteners. Do not forget to place the accessory on a flat surface and secure it to avoid falling.
  • In the second case, you should be more careful. First, the device is secured, then you have to pick up the cover with tweezers and remove it.

When the cover is removed, all that remains is to figure out how to change the battery in your wristwatch. To do this, it is advisable to carefully look and disassemble the device layer by layer, be it a quartz or electronic version. Lay out the parts in order and separately - on a fabric surface or napkin. Previewing video materials that should contain instructions will help avoid damage that could ruin the operation of the product.

How to replace the battery in a wristwatch

If “time” has stopped, how to change the battery in a wristwatch is not an idle question. To avoid damaging the device, replacing the power supply must be done with care and following the step-by-step instructions:

  1. Remove the accessory from your hand.
  2. Place on a flat surface and secure.
  3. Open the lid. Unscrew the bolts if present.
  4. Remove the old power supply with tweezers. Remember or write down its position.
  5. Buy a new battery. Buy the appropriate type of battery.
  6. Insert the new battery into the recess.
  7. Close the lid. If there are bolts, they must be tightened.
  8. Start the device.

How to close the cover of a wristwatch

The problem of how to change the battery in a watch has been solved. The old battery is removed and a new one is installed in its place. All that remains is to figure out how to close the watch cover. It won't be too difficult to do this. The main thing is to remember the opening system of the structure. If bolts were used for this, then you need to insert them into place and tighten them. If there was a pressed-in lid, then it must be pressed down tightly. You can use a board, because its wide surface evenly distributes the load. A click will indicate that the procedure was completed successfully.

Video: replacing batteries in a wristwatch

Continuation. Part two.

So, we've gone through the first part. We got a little tools. The places where the instrument grows have been explored. We have prepared a workplace for ourselves. And in general - while we were doing all this - we had a good walk through the air and got to know the hot spots and surroundings better. The first part involved quite a lot of movement and attentiveness when hiking - you had to SEARCH. What to look for - FSE! Everything is interesting and, to our still untrained eye, something that can be useful to us and unusual. Somewhat reminiscent of plushness. What is the result:

Tool. Which? First screwdrivers, then tweezers. These include a binocular magnifying glass, brushes, Petri dishes and needles. We got some oil. Yes, even for sewing machines. Well there is no other. We believe that we have nothing more. NO. All. We make do with this primitive set. But without it, you shouldn’t start.

We collected carcasses of hours.

Different. Old ones. Wrist. We just collected mechanisms for spare parts.

They took indiscriminately, everything that was cheaper than the cost of half a pack of cheap cigarettes. This is their price. Half a pack of Belomor or Prima. Trolleybus fare. They shouldn't cost more. Regardless of the condition - intact or broken. There are only two criteria. The first one is mandatory - not rusty. The second is desirable - that they be assembled (all parts are in place) - regardless of integrity. Trash. Let's sort. What do we have?

Women's wrists.

- Star. Old ones. Barrel-shaped mechanism caliber 18 mm. Allegedly, in prehistoric times the French brought it to us and assembled the LIP plant. So these are all French.

- Zarya- Penza Watch Factory

-Gull- standard small mechanisms, quite old, but durable

- Glory- newer mechanisms

Many other names. All Soviet. THE USSR. Apparently the state cared about the working class - it produced watches. So that they are not late for work. Maybe.

Men's wrist watch.

- Victory. Moscow. Lighthouse. Many watches were produced under these names. We're not talking about watches. About mechanisms.

There are basically 2 types of mechanisms.

- “high” mechanism - for example 1MChZ - “Moscow”. Central seconds hand. Most watches were assembled at its base, including the famous “Sports”. They stopped when the crown was pulled out. Ersatz stopwatch. Older type of mechanism. We don’t name the technical caliber - there’s no point. It is still impossible to order parts for the caliber.

- “low” mechanism - more modern. Side seconds hand.

In both the first and second cases, different factories produced a bunch of modifications of mechanisms - with improvements, simplifications, rationalizations. Suggestions. There were also a bunch of types of exterior decoration. Satisfied the discerning consumer.

In addition, there is a complete rainbow of other watch movements:

Slava - 2 types of mechanisms, self-winding and non-self-winding. Somewhere on the Internet it was indicated that the prototype of LIP-T-15. The French again.

Complicated watch

With alarm clock

Chronometer

For the blind

Our task is to learn how to disassemble and assemble. Then everyone will go their own way. One will only disassemble. Another will collect 50% and then - as they get bored or peacefully throw it in the trash (usually habits - vodka-dancing will overpower), others - out of anger that it doesn’t work out - hit the anvil with a hammer. Still others will calmly take it apart again, put it aside for a couple of days and try again. This is a normal form of behavior for such an unusual hobby - precision mechanics.

Let's start with a simpler direction - men's wristwatches. They are larger than women's ones. You can see them better without a microscope. An example is “low” Victory. For us it is the simplest. “High” is more difficult for the first time. The clock circuit is basically identical for all single-platinum watches. Therefore, you just need to understand and remember a few fairly simple schemes once. For the first training, just sketch what we are analyzing.

Frame:

Back cover.

There are several types of back covers. The only difference is in the manner of closing.

Slamming. A distinctive feature is that usually, upon careful examination, you can find a flat into which the knife is driven in order to open it with strong pressure. In modern electronic consumer goods, a similar lid is very often practiced, but with grooves, as if for unscrewing - a good joke. If you don’t know, then at least shoot yourself - you won’t be able to unscrew it.

A flat in the glass ring. This is not a cover.

A more modern solution is a protrusion in the lid.

And the knife just drives in here

Screw, with a screw ring or with a thread on the lid itself.

Or so - edges are visible along the edge of the lid.

We unscrew the first option either with the largest tailor's scissors (they are tougher) or with the sharpened jaws of an old caliper. At flea markets, keys like this can often be found lying around in debris.

A branded key (purchased in the most ordinary store for modellers - models of steam locomotives, cars, etc. in Germany) looks like this.

A rather rare option in Soviet watches is a bayonet mount. It turns at a slight angle and opens.

Bayonet lock on the lid

So, the clock was opened. What we see is dirt.

A lot of dirt. We immediately say that we will not deal with rusty watches. There's no chance. Nothing can be done - everything must be changed. Install a new one or sharpen a new one. It's too early for us.

Main parts of the mechanism

I - balance.

II - Wheel system

III - mainspring (maybe two - in Slava)

IV - ratchet - there can also be several types.

What we do first - while the mechanism is in the case - lower the mainspring. If the head is preserved in the carcass and can be turned (it is worn down to the base), we try to turn it slightly towards the factory and look at the ratchet. It should turn slightly and slip a couple of teeth. This is what we need - we use a needle to support it in the retracted state and, without jerking, let the crown turn and release the spring, slightly releasing the crown between the fingers.

Immediately place at least 2 Petri dishes in front of you. Or white plates or dishes with a smooth, flat bottom. Diameter 15-20 cm. I use Petri dishes. They are easier to cover during breaks.

We take out the crown. To do this, you need to press the latch with a needle.

We take the mechanism out of the case. Sometimes this is done towards the back cover. In our case, it's the other way around. The ring with glass is removed and the mechanism is pulled out to the side of the dial.

We remove the arrows

A minute in general is simple - even with a screwdriver

Hours and seconds are already a bit of an adventure. Tool - a piece was torn out of the relay (there was some kind of electric relay - the material on the contact groups is exactly what we need - hard and thin. Folded it - and there is the tool we need)

Unscrew the balance. The size (caliber) of the screwdriver must match the size of the screw.

The screw was unscrewed and how can this whole assembly be lifted? - and it usually has special grooves into which you can insert a screwdriver and separate the balance plate from the base.

We take the balance like this.

We gradually put everything into Petri dishes.

Unscrew the screws of the mainspring block. There is one trick in the watch - if the screw has many grooves, it means it has a left-hand thread.

Under the dial there is an assembly of hand wheels (I) and an assembly for winding and moving the crown from the winding position to the position for moving the hands (II) (scientifically called a remontoire). Let's sort it out.

We film a minute trib. This is the only unit in the watch where force is required. Pull hard enough. If we missed it, we'll repeat it. It always comes off with effort. The main thing is not to be afraid.

When disassembling the pointer shift assembly (repair), pay special attention to the spring.

It has a nasty property - it clicks and flies away in an unknown direction. There is a simple trick against this - we cover (press) it all lightly with just a finger and carefully “snap” it out from under the finger with a needle.

We put everything in a Petri dish

Now for the longest and neatest part. Washing.

We take a shallow bowl. We pour gasoline there. And wash it. Brush and toothpicks. To shine. So that no dirt remains.

For small mechanisms - a squirrel brush. Tougher. For large mechanisms - alarm clocks, pocket watches - you can try soft art brushes for oil paints.

Dry: first put it on a paper napkin after the gasoline. I usually take a piece of heavy cardboard and place a piece of paper towel on it. So that it does not jump and jump. Select napkins and towels according to the criterion - the less lint, the better.

Let the gasoline soak in. Let's just put it there. Then we take the parts with tweezers and blow air from a rubber bulb (enema) to blow gasoline out of the holes. And so, in sequence, all the elements of the clock that lie in a Petri dish or on an improvised “drying rack”. Knot by node. What we mean is this: if you unscrew the platinum and with it - 3 screws - put them together. We consider “this is our node.” So as not to confuse screws and parts. We put them in the same places in the Petri dish. Or better yet, into a clean cup. The old one will then be washed and wiped. This is if we don’t expect to collect it quickly. Or we collect it “from the sheet” - from a napkin. But this is subject to a certain experience, skill and speed of work. Balance. While we don’t have much experience, we don’t analyze it. So we push the platinum-spiral-balance block into a bath of gasoline and simply rinse it in gasoline for a long time. Clearly this is wrong. Everything needs to be taken apart, etc. - WE DO NOT HAVE ANY EXPERIENCE YET. We'll gut it for 5-10 hours, and then we'll look at the balance. How he understands it. Read books. And do it according to wise books (if it is described in detail there).

A note about the mainspring. We don't do anything. Just wipe the outside with a napkin. Clean the teeth with a brush. We're not doing anything else for now. We'll have fun with disassembly, lubrication, assembly and spring replacement next time. No experience yet. It's difficult.

And now more intellectual work - to assemble the resulting puzzle

Everything is done in the following order:

Mainspring

Wheel system. Let's have a little fun too. We placed the gears in the lower stones. They covered it with the platinum, and then we need to move the upper platinum in all directions with tweezers until the upper axes of the gears hit the stones. A little tedious, but doable. Sometimes you can try to help the process with a thin needle to move the gears that you can reach. The basic rule is NO VIOLENCE. Everything should be done without any effort. Everything by itself “clicks” into place over time and the plate noticeably “falls” down. A clock mechanism is a rather thin thing, the forces are very small, the loss of forces during operation is also very small, accordingly, it cannot be assembled on tight fits - THEY CANNOT BE BY DEFINITION. If the upper platinum does not sit in place, the gear is not seated in the stones. Or while we were moving all this, it jumped out of the lower stone. We repeat once again - THERE CANNOT BE EFFORT! The criterion for correct assembly may be the following: slightly turn the mainspring drum. ONLY SLIGHTLY - all gears should start to turn. This is all - almost effortlessly on the winding drum.

Putting the anchor plug in place

Let's put the balance in place.

Lubricate the stones from above - from the side of the back cover. To do this, we use homemade oil dosage.

We turn the mechanism over and lubricate all the stones on the dial side. Assembling the crown mechanism.

Spring. Another adventure. We press it all with a wide screwdriver. We thread the needle into place. Springs are probably the most disgusting thing in all this work. They're galloping. And we will suffer with them a) until we train our hands and b) until we collect carcasses of watches from which we will drag spare parts without a twinge of conscience.

They put it in place. We're not breathing. What if he jumps out?

Assembling the arrow wheels. We firmly press the minute tube onto the gear axis. How? Yes, whatever comes to hand is approximately suitable. That's how we filmed it and we'll put it on. We resist. You will have to press the trib hard until it clicks.

Lubricate. What is there to lubricate - if you have assembled this puzzle - figured it out - then you will also have to think about lubrication and lubricate it yourself. The basic rule is to lubricate only with oil dosage and to a minimum. All rubbing parts are lubricated. Platinum must be dry. That's why it's a recess in the stones - so that the oil doesn't spread beyond it. We do not lubricate the stones of the anchor fork. It's too early. A microscope is needed.

We set the dial.

We put the mechanism into the housing.

Press the crown lock and put it in place. Let's start it up. Let's enjoy it. DONE!!! YOURSELF!!!

Bogdan Yasinetsky

[email protected]

A wristwatch is an attribute that exists for almost every person. This is not just a useful thing. This is also a stylish decoration, an addition to your image. In short, an accessory that you won’t regret purchasing. But what to do when your battery runs out? How to solve this problem? How to change the battery in a wristwatch yourself if you do not have such experience? How to avoid damaging the mechanism?

How to change the battery in a wristwatch? Do you need the help of a specialist?

So where to start? As a rule, people are accustomed to turning to specialists. Of course, this is the simplest option. The craftsmen know very well about wristwatches. However, you can deal with this on your own. The main thing is to know which battery was installed by the manufacturer. By installing exactly the same one, you guarantee the mechanism a long service life. You need to look at the type of battery. The abbreviation SR indicates that the battery is silver-zinc. CR - lithium. These batteries are the most durable. Most often they are used by manufacturers.

Knowing how to change the battery in your wristwatch yourself, you can avoid installing a cheap alkaline model, designated by the letters LR. Unfortunately, unscrupulous craftsmen sometimes do this. These batteries do not last long. In addition, they weakly hold tension in the mechanism. As a result, the clock starts to lag quite quickly.

Removing the back cover

Of course, models with batteries are very convenient. There is no need to start them. But the battery is not an eternal thing. That's why it has to be changed over time. There is absolutely nothing complicated in this procedure.

So how to change the battery in a wristwatch? It all starts with removing the back cover. It can be pressed or screwed. In the first case, a special recess is provided on the lid. A small screwdriver is inserted there. The lid is carefully lifted and removed. At this moment, the main thing is to hold the watch tightly.

If there are several recesses in a circle on the back cover, you need to unscrew it. The easiest way to do this is with a caliper. The tool is inserted into two recesses, and the cover, turning counterclockwise, is carefully removed.

Changing the battery

The battery is removed using small tweezers, and a new one is inserted in its place. The main thing is that it is of the same design and specification as the old one.

When installing the battery, do not handle it by hand. It is best to use the same tweezers for this. After installation, you need to check if the clock is running. Only after this the lid returns to its place. In a word, nothing complicated.

Put the cover in place

So, the final stage. If the cap is screw-on, it must be screwed using a caliper. Do not forget also that if a gasket was installed in the watch, you need to check whether it has become unusable. Otherwise, it also needs to be replaced. If you can’t find the exact same gasket, you can use a little sealant by applying it to the threaded part.

The pressed cover is placed back on the watch on a flat surface. It is imperative to ensure that the groove corresponds to the axis of the wheel for changing the position of the arrows. After this, take a small flat object (preferably wooden), place it on the lid and gently press it on top. It should fall into place without any problems.

Thus, knowing all the nuances of how to change the battery in a wristwatch (Casio, Oreintex or any other company), you can easily cope with this task. And, most importantly, you will do it quickly and correctly.

be careful

It is only important not to forget about accuracy. If you damage the mechanism, you may not be able to “save” your watch. For example, when removing the cover, lift it very carefully. The watch must be firmly fixed, and the instrument must be pressed accurately and firmly. By the way, these measures are also necessary in order not to get hurt.

When changing batteries, remove and insert them as carefully as possible. Tweezers should not touch important elements. In a word, caution is needed in everything.

When closing the lid, carefully check the watch for leaks. If, when pressed with your finger, it still does not close, use, for example, a wooden mallet used for crushing berries, potatoes, etc. This way you can press on the entire surface at once. Eventually the matter will be completed.

However, if you are still not confident in your abilities, you can always easily find a place where you can change the battery in your wristwatch quickly and without problems. Conscientious good craftsmen will definitely be found in every city.

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