Warhammer made of paper. How the paper model of the dreadnought “Furiosso” was created. Download detailed bolter

Introducing our new Purity Seal. This time the Adeptus Mechanicus.

We would like to talk about the stages of its production, from the 3D model to the finished product.

1. Simulation

The print was completely simulated in3dsmax, it was divided into several main parts and then assembled like a construction set.

The first step was to make the right half (the skull), we did not invent anything and stretched the plane into the final model using time-tested polygonal modeling.

For the mechanized part, the base was made in the same way as the skull, then various elements such as hoses, teeth, and wires were added to it.

According to the proven scheme, a cylinder was created and a model of spread, extruded sealing wax was made. Considering that the seal is from Adeptus Mechanicus, we make a stamp in the shape of a gear, and after that, by sketching out a smoothing modifier, we get the necessary base.

We put everything in its place and combine the elements into one object. After all the manipulations we get a finished 3D model.

2. Preparation for printing

After the modeling process, the model is prepared for printing using - Autodesk Netfabb. It is important to achieve two main things:

1. Absence of exclamation marks, and therefore global jambs;

2. Model integrity. You can check it by cutting the model and looking inside.

Usually, to complete these steps, it is enough to perform advanced autocorrection.

A slicer was used to set up printing Simplify3D.

The print settings were set to the following values:

Layer height - 0.06 mm
Nozzle - 0.3
Number of solid layers:

Top – 6 layers

Bottom – 5 layers

Walls – 4 layers

Filling - 30%
Nozzle temperature - 215 C
Table temperature - 40 C

Rollback is enabled - I would like to remove fewer threads.
Border - for better adhesion to the table.
Thread diameter - 1.75 mm

Turnover - 103%

Printing time 4 hours.

3. Post-processing and casting mold

Immediately after printing we get the following result. Now we need to remove all the gradation and pronounced layers, but at the same time preserve the detail.

After sanding and minimal processing with dichloromethane, it was possible to obtain a decent master model, retaining most of the detail.

Additionally, to preserve detail, it was decided not to coat the master model with either varnish or primer.

And here the whole process was stopped, since we had to face the fact that due to the abundance of small parts it was not possible to make a high-quality silicone mold.

Attempts were made to cast several copies, but due to the presence of a large number of bubbles in the liquid plastic solution, the model required additional post-processing after casting, but the complex shape did not allow this.

Having assessed the situation, it was decided to purchase a vacuum degassing system, which made it possible to speed up the manufacturing process of products and improve their quality.

Here are examples of silicone molds and plastic castings with and without degassing.

We use silicone ToolDecor 25, hardens in about 5-6 hours, hardness Shore A: 23 (medium hard), holds its shape well, withstands many castings without losing small details.

Plastic Smooth-Cast 310, the plastic completely hardens in 3-4 hours. The manufacturer claims that it does not require degassing, but as I already wrote, our form is complex and we cannot do without degassing.

By the way, I would like to immediately say that we do not make from sealing wax, because it is a short-lived and fragile material.

As for the canvas with litany, burlap is used as the material. The inscription is applied using a printer, after which the edges are set on fire with a lighter, treated with varnish so that the threads do not unravel, and then the entire fabric is coated with acrylic varnish to protect the paint from external influences.

To “merge” the fabric and the model, a small cut is made in order to insert the fabric. To protect from paint, the fabric is wrapped in masking tape.

Then the cut is filled with ABS plastic dissolved in acetone; after drying, the joint is additionally treated with putty and carefully sanded.

For a uniform, even layer, painting was done using an airbrush; only some details were touched up with a brush. Drying 24 hours. Afterwards the model was coated with acrylic varnish. Looking at the slight glossiness, we remember that in the WH 40k universe, after printing, it is covered with a protective sealant.

And after another 24 hours of drying, you can remove the protective masking tape and see what happened.

In our opinion, it is a high-quality souvenir that was made using all the experience that was accumulated during the production of the first series of seals ().

We have now achieved a significant improvement in quality thanks to the use of a degassing chamber and airbrush painting.

The product has dimensions of 73x72 mm, litany 180x34 mm.

And that's all for now ;) for now...

P.S. Thank you for reading to the end. If you have any questions or want to get such a thing, then write here -

Today, for the glory of the Emperor, I will tell you how to build with your own hands one of the most powerful mechanisms in the Warhammer 40,000 universe, namely how to build a Dreadnought.

For a more complete understanding of this model, below I will talk about what dreadnoughts are and what sets them apart from all other walking mechanisms.
So what is a Space Marine Dreadnought? I think it’s worth starting the story with the history of the Warhammer 40,000 universe itself, which goes back almost three decades.


From the very beginning, dreadnoughts were mentioned in all canonical codexes, but initially dreadnoughts were a fairly common combat unit, had a different appearance (more like modern terminators), and were essentially ordinary combat exoskeletons.


Since the time of the first codes, a lot of water has passed under the bridge and a lot has changed in them, these changes also affected dreadnoughts, turning them into much more interesting creatures.
The dreadnought is not a robot or a suit, it is a tomb for the heroes of the Space Marine orders, who received mortal wounds, but having invaluable experience, to preserve this knowledge, they are surgically placed in the adamantium sarcophagus of the dreadnought, in which they continue to accumulate their knowledge and experience for many millennia.


Each dreadnought is a sacred relic of any order, revered and sacredly protected, therefore, even if the dreadnought is almost completely destroyed, the fighters of the order will try to recapture its remains to the last drop of blood.
Dreadnoughts are used only in extreme cases, when their unimaginable power and colossal experience can turn the tide of even the most hopeless battle.
There are several modifications of dreadnoughts. The main difference between them is the armament and degree of security.

I won’t go into detail; I’ll just note the modification we’ll discuss about assembling below. We are talking about the “Furioso” or “Nonstrashimy” modification, the peculiarity of the presence of weapons only for close combat (power fists and flamethrowers as additional ones). In service only in the Order of the Blood Angels.

There is also some kind of internal hierarchy among the dreadnoughts.
Having gone through countless battles and performing new feats on the battlefield over time, the dreadnought is awarded the status of “honorable”, after which it is decorated accordingly, so the more battles the dreadnought goes through, the more richly its adamantine body is decorated.

I think I’ll stop here, you can read in more detail by following the links.
Next, the story will go directly about the construction of the dreadnought.

We will be assembling the Blood Angels' honorary dreadnought, the Dauntless. The peculiarity of this model is the absence of weapons only for ranged combat.
The patterns also include an automatic cannon. Decide for yourself which dreadnought you should build.
The first thing to do is print out the parts (I printed on matte 220 gram paper from xerox), the patterns were originally designed to be printed on A4 sheets, but in the end the model would have to be very small, so I printed on A3 paper. If you want to make the Blood Angels dreadnought like I do, the second “arm” will need to be reflected horizontally before printing.
Sources:

The patterns include options with ready-made coloring.

Then we print out detailed assembly instructions.

In addition to the printed parts, you need to prepare a sheet of cardboard (at least 2.5 mm thick) and a set of tools. Cardboard will be needed to strengthen the frame and large parts of the model.
For painting you need to prepare a set of paints. Colors according to the specific dreadnought you will be building. Ideally it should be painted with an airbrush. But a relatively cheap alternative can be paints in aerosol cans.

In total, in terms of money, all the materials cost me about 3,000 rubles. (not taking into account the cost of tools).

In general, we can say that technically it is not difficult to assemble the model, simple geometric shapes and not sharp corners predominate, but the model consists of almost 5 hundred parts.
We begin assembly with the main body. We reinforce large parts from the inside with cardboard.



Next, we begin assembling the thermal reactor, which is attached to the back of our walker.


Separately, I’ll tell you about the technology for assembling armored shields that cover the thermal reactor from fire. The two parts that make up the shield are first bent to give the desired shape, and then generously lubricated from the inside with universal glue, secured in the desired position and dried.


At the very end, imitation rivets are applied.

This completes the assembly of the main body and we move on to the legs and suspension.


Difficulties can only arise when assembling the leg joints. They should be securely reinforced with cardboard inserts.
Next comes the assembly of the limbs of our fur.


We glue rivets onto the assembled arm mechanisms.
Once all the parts are assembled, you can begin painting and decorating.
And as an introduction, a few words about painting technology. It consists of sequential application of layers of paint.
The primer is applied first in 2-3 layers.
The second layer is metallic, applied to the entire surface of the model as the main color; later, when designing, thanks to this technology, the model will be visually more realistic.

The third layer is the final color. After the main color (metallic) has dried, masking tape is used to cover the places where the additional color should not be applied (red blue black, depending on the chosen affiliation with the order; in our case these are blood angels, which means red).
After drying, the additional color is applied using sandpaper to random areas of wear so that the main color (metallic) is exposed.

And the fourth one applies various varnishes.

After completing the painting and applying the facts, you can begin applying insignia and decorations.
For this I used stencils. They are made of self-adhesive paper.


We fashion decorations for our dreadnought from thermoplastic.
In total, the work lasted for 4 months, the result of the work is below.

Behold, mortal, these are not just weapons, these are legendary bolters, which are the most common weapon among space marines. Let's start the fight against xenos with the Mk 4 bolter. The size of this unit is amazing. In my opinion, the model is quite easy to assemble, despite 15 pages of parts, and the end result is well worth the effort and time spent. The weapons of the formidable Space Marines will adequately decorate your shelf, and, if necessary, will serve you well in attracting the opposite sex. They love big guns)

From pepakura

Download a paper bolter -

But what if the enemy is behind cover and you need to make a targeted shot? Here the second bolter will come to our aid - the Stalker model. It features an extended barrel and a sniper scope.

In pepakura it takes up as many as 20 pages, and no wonder, its length from the butt to the barrel is 70 cm. The complexity is above average, there are small details.

Download Paper model "Stalker" -

The next model is a more detailed version of the first bolter. In this case, it takes 14 pages to unfold, but it is more difficult to assemble due to the larger number of small parts. Good quality textures available.

Download bolter with textures -

There is another version of the same bolter without textures and with a slightly different layout. It's also 14 pages long, but I think it's a little simpler. The choice is yours.

Download detailed bolter -

The next model is also not very different from the first, mainly with the side symbol and spikes on top. It only takes 10 pages and is below average in complexity.

And the last model in our selection. This is a bolter that you can build the way you like. It differs from all others in the possible variation of its parts: sight, butt, magazine. The layout takes up as much as 39 pages, and the bolter itself is about 70 cm long without the stock. Some parts are located on two pages, so you will have to combine them. Otherwise the difficulty is medium-high. There are small details. All additional parts are placed outside the sheets.

Download variable bolter -

Today these are all types of bolters that can be assembled from paper. But this is not the end, several bonuses await you ahead.

The first bonus is what you will need after assembling the bolter for a systematic fight against your enemies. Any weapon needs ammunition, and the bolter is not just ammunition, but small missiles, thanks to which it becomes such a dangerous weapon. And if you were wondering where to find them, then don’t worry, everything is already ready.

The bolter ammo layout only takes 1 page and once assembled you will have 3 mini missiles. It should be enough for the first time. The difficulty is low, there shouldn't be any problems.

Download Bolter Ammo -

The second bonus is something that will be useful to you after the cleansing of the Imperium. The bolter also needs to be stored somewhere. And a special bolter box will help with this. You can hang it on the wall and tell your friends about your victories.

The spread takes 22 pages, the complexity is low.